Ronin

The enigmatic name fits the woodsy contemporary setting that is all deep, murky colors except for the colorful scarves tied around the heads of the chefs as they work behind the well-lighted sushi bar.
Kaku Usui and Keith Cha and their fellow chefs have the right combination of skill and personality. Their expertly made sushi - from spicy tuna rolls to yellowtail and salmon eggs and well beyond - is augmented by a concise menu from the kitchen, where chef Matthew Dalton combines east and west harmoniously.
Appetizers range from gyoza, dumplings filled with finely chopped pork and accompanied by a chili-tinged dipping sauce, to the equally classic miso soup and chicken yakitori. A contemporary twist comes with the lettuce cups filled with a choice of black cod, chicken or tofu and vegetables - and with Kobe "sliders," a duo of elegant little burgers that come with a heap of irresistible shoestring potatoes.
The big room is broken up into sections by sturdy cedar columns and stands of live bamboo under a ceiling masked with arrangements of willow reed twigs. Lighting is indirect. Front windows open onto the sidewalk, making the cocktail lounge open-air on warm nights.

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