Many of the dishes at Kopitiam have a comfort quality, and after a visit or two, you're likely to find one to call your own. The Silken Cloud ($6.25) -- a block of steamed tofu as delicate as panna cotta -- is as seductive as the name sounds. Underneath the cloud is a playful sweet-and-sour sauce, and on top are crunchy vegetables and peanuts.
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