The Whitney

Molly Abraham, Detroit News Restaurant Critic: The beauty of the meticulously restored pink jasper structure, built as a family residence in the 1890's by lumber baron David Whitney Jr., tends to overshadow the upscale American food. But the fare lives up to the setting and service is professional. Chef Michael Lutes heads the kitchen, preparing the upscale American menu that is typified by such dishes as roasted Mediterranean sea bass with celery root puree, beurre rouge and fennel/apple salad and filet of Angus beef with herb and white cheddar in a red wine reduction. An array of wonderful desserts ranges from creme brulee with berry compote to pear/honey spice cake. All the amenities of fine dining are observed here in a series of dining rooms on the first floor. Arthur (Bud) Liebler and his son Patrick, just the second regime since the restaurant opened in 1986, have pledged to keep the tradition alive, and they are doing it by somewhat downplaying the elegant setting and making it more approachable for a younger crowd. A new option is the chef's table in a small private dining room with space for 10. The third floor cocktail lounge, known as the Ghost Bar, offers live entertainment on Fridays and Saturdays.