Bistro 31

Opened Oct. 3, 2011.

Long in the making, Bistro 31, the new restaurant from Alberto Lombardi debuts tonight in Highland Park Village. Longtime Mansion alum Eric Brandt is the chef. The restaurant's publicist Lindsey Miller was kind enough to let me peek at the menu, which is still being tweaked, but at this point there's plenty to intrigue, all in a Mediterranean mood. For dinner, starters include salt cod croquettes with piquillo aioli; escargots with crisp pork belly, a fricassee of trumpet mushrooms and walnut pistou; and a charred tomato soup with Gruyere crouton. Pastas depart from the ordinary, with handmade spaghetti alla chitarra with lobster bolognese; trofie with crispy pancetta, roasted cauliflower, parmesan cream and anchovy bread crumbs (yes, please!) and torchio with Dungeness crab, sweet peas and lemon confit. For mains, you can go simple with a pork-belly-enriched Wagyu burger or quiche and salad, or go all cheffy with brioche-crusted lemon sole or a roasted duck breast with Valencia oranges, picholine olives and toasted almond couscous.
The streamlined, one-page wine list omits vintages, but offers many selections by the glass, and some promising bottles from Europe and the U.S. priced under $50.
Lombardi is the restaurateur behind La Fiorentina, Toulouse, Taverna and more.
Service begins with dinner tonight; lunch starts tomorrow and brunch on Saturday and Sunday. Breakfast starts next Monday.
-Leslie Brenner / Restaurant Critic (10-03-2011)