Scardello Artisan Cheese

Though its front-and-center glass case holds a revolving selection of 130 cut-to-order cheeses, the term "cheese shop" doesn't actually capture the breadth of the business' scope. It's also a tasting room of sorts.

Rolls of butcher-block paper mounted on the wall behind the cheese case announce the day's selections of by-the-glass vino. The staff will happily compose a cheese plate to be eaten at one of the shop's three rustic tables. (The cost begins at $5 for a setup, which includes sweet or savory accompaniments, plus the price of the cheese.)

While the staff readies your in-store or to-go cheese selections, wander the store and check out the other gourmet goodies, including a counter of bulk salts, dried imported pasta and polenta, olive oils, condiments, crackers and small-batch chocolates. A shelf in the back stocks 100 different bottles of wine.

Scardello Artisan Cheese also serves lunch. The brief menu includes an assortment of hot pressed sandwiches, along with traditional cheese plates and a ploughman's lunch (bread, cheese and a mixed-green salad).